Takayama - into the countryside?

10 October, Nagoya

Takayama was one hell of a long trip. It was close to 5 hours total time on the train and this time a local rattler, rather than the Shinkansen. To make matters worse, on our return trip, because of booking problems, we tried our luck in the non-reserved carriages. Bad call. After about two hours rocking about, standing outside the toilet at the end of a carriage with a dozen or so other losers, we managed to grab a couple of seats as people left the train.

Takayama is famous for its old, traditional Japanese houses. The best-presented were those that had been taken from within the region and then re-built inside a cultural village just outside town. The remaining old houses in the town itself, as is common with these attractive, historical areas, are now mainly tourist shops with the usual, over-priced, 'traditional craft' and souvenir shops. Sake breweries and restaurants complete the streetscape. We might have been tempted to sample some of their wares were it not for the thousands of others who strolled these streets and alleys on this Monday of a long weekend. As it was, we ambled along with the masses for a while, then high-tailed it for the station, to beat the inevitable rush back to Nagoya. As it turned out, we were not alone in this clever thinking!

For the first time, this trip took us through some rural landscapes, or what we assume passes for such in this densely populated region. The rice harvest must be close. Small plots of golden rice filled in more and more space between houses. Most plots were smaller than an average Australian suburban block, but we assume farmers own several plots slotted in amongst their neighbours' homes. About the only livestock we have seen has been a few chickens.

The climb up to Takayama was through some splendid mountain scenery, with some of the trees just showing the first glint of autumn colours. The railway followed swift-flowing, clear mountain streams for most of the route. Sadly, although understandably, some of this natural beauty has been spoilt by numerous hydro-electric stations and dams. Their associated towers and cables were draped over almost every slope.

Being a holiday weekend, local tourists were out in force. Sadly for the Japanese economy, foreign travellers were few and mostly backpackers and low end types like ourselves.